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Indonesia’s Toraja, the land that celebrates the living dead

Theo

By Ayesha Sitara

The Toraja are a hill tribe in Indonesia who still believe in animistic burial rites and in keeping the dead “alive” at home until the rituals are completed.

💡Note: This gallery contains graphic images of human remains and animal slaughter.

The welcoming festival for a buffalo sacrifice as part of the funeral rituals in Tana Toraja.
The welcoming feast for a buffalo sacrifice as part of the funeral rituals in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

While most people in the world bury or cremate their dead soon after death, the Toraja keep their dead at home in a coffin until a buffalo is sacrificed. Therefore, families spend their entire lives saving to buy a buffalo, which can cost millions of rupees. This can sometimes take years, and during this time the dead are cared for like the sick and given food, water, and normal entertainment.

A woman sits in her bedroom in Tana Toraja next to the coffin of her late husband. He has been dead for ten months and still lives with her because she has not yet sacrificed a buffalo in his honor.A woman sits in her bedroom in Tana Toraja next to the coffin of her late husband. He has been dead for ten months and still lives with her because she has not yet sacrificed a buffalo in his honor.
A woman sits next to her late husband’s coffin in her bedroom in Tana Toraja. He has been dead for ten months and still lives with her because she has not yet sacrificed a buffalo in his honor. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

Although many Toraja converted to Christianity under Dutch rule, funeral rites continue to be performed in the traditional manner, which includes communal feasts, dances, animal sacrifices, and bull and cock fights.

A buffalo sacrifice in Tana Toraja. As part of Rambu Solo, the Toraja burial ritual, a buffalo must be slaughtered.A buffalo sacrifice in Tana Toraja. As part of Rambu Solo, the Toraja burial ritual, a buffalo must be slaughtered.
A buffalo sacrifice in Tana Toraja. As part of Rambu Solo, the Toraja burial ritual, a buffalo must be slaughtered. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

After the celebrations, the dead are buried in family graves – ancient ones like caves and boulders or modern concrete graves. Since they believe in an afterlife, the dead body is buried with material possessions, especially those that one favored in this life.

Family members attend a funeral service for a deceased relative in Tana Toraja.Family members attend a funeral service for a deceased relative in Tana Toraja.
Family members attend a funeral service for a deceased relative in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

In much of the world, death often symbolizes a sad separation from our loved ones and funerals are a solemn affair. But in Toraja, death is honored both in nature and in daily life.

Boys in traditional Toraja textiles and clothing in Tana Toraja.Boys in traditional Toraja textiles and clothing in Tana Toraja.
Boys in traditional Toraja textiles and clothing in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

The sacrificed animals are shared by hundreds of guests and the various funeral rituals benefit the local economy. Tourists are even welcome at these personal events, as the Torajas believe that the more guests there are at the funeral, the more respect and honor the deceased will receive.

A funeral procession of family members and relatives in Tana Toraja.A funeral procession of family members and relatives in Tana Toraja.
A funeral procession of family members and relatives in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

Stay tuned for part 2 tomorrow.

A woman harvests rice in Tana Toraja.A woman harvests rice in Tana Toraja.
A woman harvests rice in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Women wearing straw hats at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. The Toraja funeral ceremonies take place every year between July and September during the dry harvest season.Women wearing straw hats at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. The Toraja funeral ceremonies take place every year between July and September during the dry harvest season.
Women wearing straw hats at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. The Toraja funeral ceremonies take place every year between July and September during the dry harvest season. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
A Toraja woman takes part in an animal sacrifice as part of the funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja.A Toraja woman takes part in an animal sacrifice as part of the funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja.
A Toraja woman takes part in an animal sacrifice during the funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
A musician plays the "Subscribe to" a traditional bamboo flute at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja.A musician plays the "Subscribe to" a traditional bamboo flute at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja.
A musician plays the “saluang,” a traditional bamboo flute, at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
The buffalo market in Pasar Bolu, Tana Toraja. Buffalo prices are high and families often save their whole lives to buy a buffalo that will later be slaughtered at the funeral.The buffalo market in Pasar Bolu, Tana Toraja. Buffalo prices are high and families often save their whole lives to buy a buffalo that will later be slaughtered at the funeral.
The buffalo market in Pasar Bolu, Tana Toraja. Prices for buffalo are high and families often save their whole lives to buy one to be slaughtered later at the funeral. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
The Torajas believe that the soul of the dead can only reach Puya, the afterlife, if a buffalo is slaughtered during a funeral ceremony.The Torajas believe that the soul of the dead can only reach Puya, the afterlife, if a buffalo is slaughtered during a funeral ceremony.
The Torajas believe that the soul of the dead only reaches Puya, or the afterlife, if a buffalo is slaughtered during a funeral ceremony. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Sometimes in Tana Toraja several buffaloes are sacrificed to honor the dead, depending on their social status.Sometimes in Tana Toraja several buffaloes are sacrificed to honor the dead, depending on their social status.
Sometimes in Tana Toraja, several buffaloes are sacrificed to honor the dead, depending on their social status. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
A sacrificed albino buffalo in Tana Toraja. Bighorns and albino buffalo generally fetch a higher price at the Pasar Bolu buffalo market.A sacrificed albino buffalo in Tana Toraja. Bighorns and albino buffalo generally fetch a higher price at the Pasar Bolu buffalo market.
A sacrificed albino buffalo in Tana Toraja. Bighorns and albino buffalo generally fetch a higher price at the Pasar Bolu buffalo market. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
A slaughtered buffalo was taken away to be slaughtered in Tana Toraja.A slaughtered buffalo was taken away to be slaughtered in Tana Toraja.
A slaughtered buffalo was taken away to be slaughtered in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Skinning before butchering a buffalo for a funeral feast in Tana Toraja.Skinning before butchering a buffalo for a funeral feast in Tana Toraja.
Skinning a buffalo before butchering it for a funeral feast in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
No meat is wasted and the leftover raw meat is divided among the relatives attending the funeral and taken home to their villages around Tana Toraja.No meat is wasted and the leftover raw meat is divided among the relatives attending the funeral and taken home to their villages around Tana Toraja.
No meat is wasted and the leftover raw meat is divided among relatives who attend the funeral and take it home to their villages around Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Pig sacrifice in Tana Toraja. In addition to buffalo, pigs are also sacrificed.Pig sacrifice in Tana Toraja. In addition to buffalo, pigs are also sacrificed.
Sacrificial animals in Tana Toraja. In addition to buffalo, pigs are also sacrificed. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
The sacrificial meat is mixed with local herbs and cooked in bamboo sticks over improvised fires in Tana Toraja.The sacrificial meat is mixed with local herbs and cooked in bamboo sticks over improvised fires in Tana Toraja.
The sacrificial meat is mixed with local herbs and cooked in bamboo sticks over makeshift fires in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Guests and relatives feast on sacrificial meat at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja.Guests and relatives feast on sacrificial meat at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja.
Guests and relatives enjoy the sacrificial meat at a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
The feast at a Torjan funeral includes a local tuak, an alcoholic palm drink.The feast at a Torjan funeral includes a local tuak, an alcoholic palm drink.
A local tuak, an alcoholic palm drink, is served at a Torjan funeral. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Not only guests, but also butchers, drivers, helpers, cooks, volunteers, guides, tourists and all those gathered at the funeral ceremony help themselves to a tuak in Tana Toraja.Not only guests, but also butchers, drivers, helpers, cooks, volunteers, guides, tourists and all those gathered at the funeral ceremony help themselves to a tuak in Tana Toraja.
Not only guests, but also butchers, drivers, helpers, cooks, volunteers, guides, tourists and everyone who has gathered at the funeral ceremony help themselves to a tuak in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
The buffalo's skin is skinned and later processed into leather in Tana Toraja.The buffalo's skin is skinned and later processed into leather in Tana Toraja.
The buffalo hides are skinned in Tana Toraja and later processed into leather. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Two little girls inspect drying animal skins in Tana Toraja.Two little girls inspect drying animal skins in Tana Toraja.
Two little girls inspect drying animal skins in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Two boys carry the horns of a sacrificed buffalo in Tana Toraja. They are cleaned and dried.Two boys carry the horns of a sacrificed buffalo in Tana Toraja. They are cleaned and dried.
Two boys carry the horns of a sacrificed buffalo in Tana Toraja. They are cleaned and dried. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.
Buffalo horns are used to decorate the outside of a house, known as tongkanan in Tana Toraja.Buffalo horns are used to decorate the outside of a house, known as tongkanan in Tana Toraja.
Buffalo horns are used to decorate the outside of a house called tongkanan in Tana Toraja. Photo: Ayesha Sitara.

Ayesha Sitara is a documentary photographer based in Hong Kong. She has had work published in Gestalten, Al Jazeera, The Guardian, The Hindu, HarpersCollins, Asia Times, SCMP and Wall to Wall Media UK (documentaries), to name a few. She received an honourable mention at the 19th Pollux Awards and her photographs have been exhibited at Fotonostrum Gallery in Barcelona. She is a member of the Cathay Camera Club in Hong Kong and the winner of its annual exhibition in 2022.

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