The verdict on 3 new Atlanta restaurants: The Little Hippo, Birdcage and Buttermilk Biscuit

The little hippopotamus
The adage “good things come in small packages” proves true when it comes to Little Hippo in Avondale Estates. With the namesake pink hippo lounging just under the eaves, the restaurant resembles a shotgun house in a sea green hue. (The restaurant opened in December as The Velvet Hippo, but legal issues led to a name change.) It’s a joyful sight on a sunny day — the best kind of day to visit the new restaurant of sandwiches, because it only offers outdoor seating. A handful of these seats are under the covered patio, but the rest are in the “backyard,” sitting on artificial turf with bistro lights strung above. Owned by Aaron and Jamie Russell of Poor Hendrix fame, The Little Hippo’s specialty is perfectly executed simplicity. The menu includes six sandwiches (including a vegan option), soup, salad and a few snacks, like chicken nuggets and sweet potato hummus. On a recent visit with my five-year-old, the fried catfish sandwich was perfectly crispy, spreading across the bun with pickled vegetables piled high on top. Umami aioli tempered the heat of the chiles, and a side salad of lettuce, spicy pepitas, golden raisins, and a honey-Aleppo pepper vinaigrette added a refreshing touch to the meal. I didn’t try any cocktails this time, but the list suits the outdoor setting, with options like the “Smuggler Donn,” a blend of rum, grapefruit, lime and cinnamon syrup. Thank goodness patio season is upon us; I come back soon. Avondale Estates

Aviary
You can’t miss Birdcage as you drive down Memorial Drive, with the vibrant purple LED signage plastered across its exterior and the orange feathered chandeliers hanging in the dining room. Birdcage is owned by Leslie Cohen, who also owns Firepit Pizza Tavern in the same plaza, and chef Shaun Whitmer. The name refers to both its many chicken options and the classic Robin Williams film of the same name, set in Miami. Although it’s not a nightclub, the lively atmosphere, blue booths and yellow chairs create a festive backdrop for standout dishes like sweet potato bravas, chicken tinga tacos and black bean croquettes. Cocktails match the tone of their cheeky names, like the Look at Your Pinky, made with vodka, prickly pear liqueur, Aperol, lime and tonic. Birdcage is open for lunch and dinner. Grant Park

Buttermilk Biscuit
You can never have too many places for cookies, right? LeAnna Lynn is bringing her own butter cookies to College Park with Buttermilk Biscuit, which opened last November. The restaurant serves breakfast, brunch and lunch seven days a week. Within the confines of the modern farmhouse-style dining room, guests can enjoy a variety of cookies, such as the Biscuit Trio (a sweet cookie with blueberry and lemon, a savory garlic and cheddar and a classic buttermilk biscuit, served with jam) or the fried biscuit. cookie bites coated with powdered sugar. Other Southern dishes are also tempting, like shrimp and grits, pancakes, and a veggie-loaded omelet. If you like a brunch cocktail, they offer drinks like the Proud Mary, which replaces vodka with tequila, and a Hennessy espresso martini. College Park

This article appears in our May 2024 issue.

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